Please allow 3-5 weeks for chassis to be built. Designed for 115' - 125' wheelbase and 40'+ tires tubing lower frame rails keep the chassis strong create the exact look you want and let us do the hard part. Designed for trailing arms or traditional shock placement Suspension oriented design focused on ride quality and race performance

Just add tubing and your imagination for the ride of your dreams. It is already slugged and welded for through-frame coolant. 188 wall upper frame rails and lower tie-ins. If your the type of guy who can bend tube and fabricate but dont want to risk screwing up the most important parts like suspension and drivetrain placement this kit is for you. We now offer a lower frame rail section that you can build your dream rig from. I then made a 4' long link with some steel tubing and threaded rod, as well as some ball ends to complete the front battery tray.SOOOO many people have asked us for this. It was a quick fix but seems to work very well for what I need. I then mounted my servo to one side and left the other side for the battery. To mount a smaller 2200mah 2 cell lipo in the front, like those used in a 1/16 scale Traxxas car/truck, I found a 1' wide piece of a brass flat bar at my local hobby store and cut it to 6'. The Traxxas plastic driveshafts work well, but the bottom needs to be drilled out to for the axle and transmission yolks to fit. Be aware, however, that this may require different driveshafts to make work. This will not damage the motor, and will just reverse the rotation of the motor. However, this could be avoided by simply wiring the motor backwards, with the positive to the negative and so on. In my case, I simply took apart the axles and reassembled them upside down (flipped over). It meant that when I ran the motor in the forward 'normal' direction, the wheels were turning backwards. I found out that the only way to mount the battery lower in the chassis but still use a large battery was to mount the battery in front of the spur/pinion gear cover, but resting on the transmission case, as shown in the pictures. My personal idea was to have the ability to use full stick packs, such as a 5000mah 2 cell lipo in my crawler for longer run times, while still being able to use a smaller battery out front to help with more challenging sections and competition courses. With our goal and theories in mind, we can start the design. If they do not come with hardware, then you will have to buy them yourself. All assembly screws, which should come with the set of axles, transmission and extra parts. Four bead lock wheels and four rock crawling tires

plastic or aluminium body, it doesn't really matter for our purposes A set of four shocks, with long travel (the axial ones are good). a set of electronics, ie a brushed or brushless speed control, a motor, a servo (the bigger the better), a transmitter and receiver set and a lipo OR nickel metal hydride battery you may have to buy the axles separately, but the axles used on the Traxxas slash work great, once you drill the bottom out. An Axial Wraith centre transmission with the motor plate and gear cover with axles. Two Axial Wraith complete axles with links included, available from e-bay among other places In case you want to build your own RC crawler, here is the parts list These screws are available at you local hobby store, and you will need matching hex drivers to put them in. Secondly, we will need some screws to hold it all together, so get 8 1'' long steel screws and 8 2' long steel screws. first of all, we will need to get two large plastic cutting boards that are a 1/2' thick. however, we will need to buy a few materials before we can get started. since these two trucks use the same axles, shocks, and transmission, which truck you start out with doesn't really matter, because these are the parts we will be using. To begin our build, we will need some simple parts from local stores around your area, as well as the parts from your axial AX-10 Deadbolt or Wraith.

Rock bouncer cage